Smart Housekeeping
The No-Nonsense Guide to Decluttering, Organizing, and Cleaning Your Home,

Contents

Bathrooms

Design

Organizing

More Ideas for Increasing Storage

Cleaning

Quick Cleaning

Cleaning Mirrors

Cleaning Fixtures

Bathroom Ventilation

Towel Bars

 

Windows

Cleaning Windows

Privacy Control

Cleaning Window Treatments

Venetian Blinds
Curtains
Shutters
Shades

Interior Painting

Thoughts about Clutter--Bathroom Clutter

Makeup

Storage and Disposal of Medicines

The Mice Step Out! The Mice Visit the Lighthouse

Book Reviews

Product Reviews

Credits

Bathrooms

Dressing and getting ready to go somewhere are often done in a hurry, one eye on the clock. As a rule, that means clutter scattered from here to there. That may be inevitable once in a while. But it's important to keep bathrooms clean as a general rule. For one thing, they're usually small rooms. It doesn't take much to make them look like a mini-disaster area. For another thing, if you wreck the bathroom getting dressed in a hurry today, what will you do tomorrow when you're in just as much of a hurry? The only way to find things quickly is to keep chaos at bay.

Design

With minimal space, setting up a bathroom to be easy to take care of may take some ingenuity. Even with more than minimal space, it may. I've lived in a house with a huge, luxurious bathroom that had none of the things I considered essential. No linen closet, inadequate towel rods, and no easy way to put them up--the walls were ceramic tile. No place for a wastebasket or hamper. A huge counter with only two tiny drawers. Filling the enormous bathtub to a comfortable level took twice the water of an ordinary tub. Cleaning it was acrobatic.

But it sure looked like a spread out of a design magazine. Would have been nice if it had actually worked.

Organizing

Bathrooms are full of small objects. Razor cartridges, cotton balls, eyeliner pencils, lip balm, medicines, swabs...it goes on and on. In order to control so much potential clutter, you need a container for each kind of thing, and a shelf, cabinet, or system of some kind for organizing them. I use organizers of all kinds in the bathroom, from tiny plastic boxes to collect small things on the medicine cabinet shelves to large canvas drawers in the under sink cabinet.

The "luxury" bathroom I described above is, fortunately, a thing of the past. My current place has a medium amount of floor space, a good linen closet, and had very little handy storage when I moved in. But, taking advantage of the floor space, I was able to fit in some improvements.

A narrow painted wire shelf that was probably originally intended for organizing CDs is the perfect size for matched vintage enamelware medical canisters that hold everything from swabs to a little sewing kit. A rolling tower organizer with shelves and baskets--intended for kitchen use--holds towels, washcloths, cleaning cloths, and an enamelware box for jewelry. A narrow "Metro" type shelf holds a couple of foldable canvas drawers with clothing. I added narrow shelves over the sink, and a magnetic bulletin board. Using ceramic magnetic hooks, I keep hair claws, toothbrushes, and other frequently-used objects handy.

More Ideas for Increasing Storage

If storage in your bathroom isn't great, use baskets or small plastic "chest of drawers" type containers in the cabinet under the sink to keep things orderly. Long under-sink cabinets may even allow you to put a small shelving unit at the front. But be aware, that under-sink cabinet may be damper than most storage areas, or may get wet if there's a leak.

One storage trick is a shoe bag on the back of the door. These can store many small items in an orderly way. Use a clear plastic one or label the compartments so you won't be digging for the things you want.

There are also shower curtains with pockets for organizing a few things that you use around the tub. They really are for small things only though--they can't hold anything heavy.

Small corner shelves are available for increasing storage around a bathtub. They're mounted on a rod that goes from the tub to the ceiling. I haven't been impressed with them--they don't hold much, and the lower end of the pole complicates cleaning around the tub.

You may be able to put up a tension type shower curtain rod about two inches from the long wall above a bathtub and hang plastic baskets from it to hold shampoo, conditioner, and other things you need in the shower.

Narrow wall-hung shelves and cabinets can hold many of the small things that are useful in the bathroom.

Over-the-toilet cabinets can compensate for a lack of storage space. Some are tension rod mounted, others are like real furniture. Cheaper ones tend to be very flimsy.

If your bathroom cabinets work with over-the-cabinet-door organizers, they can help keep things in order. Just be aware that, clever as those organizers are, they don't work with all cabinet door profiles.

If you have a medicine cabinet with a metal door, stick a small note pad to a plastic magnet sheet and keep it on the door. Keep a pen handy in the medicine cabinet, and use your note pad as a "bathroom grocery list." Even if you don't remember to take that with you on your next market trip, having written it will probably jog your memory. It definitely beats trying to recall that you're running out of shampoo the next time you're in the vicinity of your kitchen list.

Cleaning

Bathrooms need special cleaning, or they're plastered with toothpaste in the sink, hair on the counter, and splashes on the mirror. Or worse, of course. It's not heavy cleaning, as a rule, but it's more constant than you'd probably have to do anywhere else but the kitchen.

Quick Cleaning

Most bathrooms are built with very cleanable surfaces. For me, though, the problem with keeping up with the need for cleaning was that I didn't keep cleaning materials in the bathroom. They'd be in the kitchen or the laundry room, so every time I'd notice that I needed to clean something in the bathroom, I'd have to make time to go to another room, gather the things I needed, and head back to the bathroom to use them. Or, of course, put it off because I didn't have time.

It took a while for me to figure out that I could store a supply of cleaners and tools in the bathroom itself, and whisk out what I needed as soon as I noticed that something needed attention.

Cleaning Fixtures

Bathtubs--I use liquid cleaner in the bathtub, since powdered cleanser is so prone to leave grit, no matter how much I rinse. Straight liquid dishwashing detergent, liquid laundry detergent, or an all-purpose spray cleaner are effective on soap scum and grunge. They won't scratch fiberglass fixtures, and are, of course, also safe for the sturdier porcelain ones. I like a battery powered scrub brush for bathtub cleaning.

Shower Stalls-- If your shower stall has a glass door in a track, the main cleaning problem is the track. If it's in bad shape see if you can remove the doors altogether so you can clean it thoroughly. There are brushes and scrapers designed just for cleaning tracks of windows and shower doors. Use a strong all-purpose cleaner and be prepared for a big job.

For routine cleaning of the glass, treat as for windows. I recommend automotive glass cleaner as opposed to grocery store type window cleaner.

You can minimize routine cleaning of glass shower doors and tile walls by drying them with a squeegee when you finish showering.

Toilets--Very few people are fond of cleaning toilets. Wear gloves for this job--either special ones that you keep just for this use, or disposables.You can clean the bowl by sprinkling a little bleach-based cleanser in it, using a brush to clean both under and above the water. Don't forget to clean under the rim.

If the toilet has a ring from hard water mineral deposits, you can remove it with a pumice stick. Get the stick thoroughly wet before scrubbing with it, or you'll scratch the porcelain.

Clean the outside of the toilet with heavy duty spray cleaner, paying special attention to the handle. The use of germicidal cleaners in homes is controversial, but if you use one anywhere, I'd imagine this would be the place. Clean thoroughly around the seat and its hinges, and the underside of the seat as well.

If there's a problem with the floor around the toilet, the enzyme products that are used for removing pet urine odors may help. Some people use a paste of baking soda and water, which they apply thickly and then spray with a vinegar solution.

Sinks-- I use liquid cleaner in the sink, just as I do in the tub. But dry cleanser will work, as long as you keep in within the area that's easy to rinse. A scrubbing sponge is adequate here, and a battery powered brush is likely to be awkward in the sink bowl.

The faucets need more detailed attention. Clean all around them with a brush if they seem to have trapped a lot of dirt. If you have a single control bathroom faucet, don't forget to clean the area that's only exposed when the water is running. I've resorted to cleaning very dirty faucet assemblies with a WaterPik.

I wipe out the bathroom sink at least daily. This is a quick operation, not a major cleaning, but it makes a big difference.

Cleaning Mirrors

Never spray cleaner on a mirror. It can leak around the edges and damage the silvering in back. Instead, spray the cleaner on a cleaning cloth and wipe the spots off the mirror with that.

Many cleaning sources recommend microfiber for cleaning glass. I haven't found that it works well at all. Microfiber glass cloths that I've tried have not been absorbent. The cleaner beads up and makes smears. I prefer a soft cotton cloth.

 

Bathroom Ventilation

The main reason for ventilating bathrooms isn't odor removal. It's moisture control. Without good ventilation, either windows or fans, bathrooms have a level of moisture that encourages mold and mildew. Run the fan or open the window after using the bath or shower, or when you have damp towels on the towel bars. If you have closet storage in your bathroom, use moisture absorbers if dank scents develop. In my experience, scented moisture absorbers are unpleasant, but it's possible to get them fragrance-free.

Towel Bars

Towel bars should be made of a material that won't deteriorate from contact with damp towels. I'm no fan of wood towel bars, as I've seen a few with the kind of varnish loss that you'd expect. Some may be more resistant than others, but it's not an ideal material. Stainless steel or chromed steel will last much longer.

The mystery with towel bars is--why don't they fit towels? The longest easily-available towel bar is 24 inches. Bath towels are 30 inches wide. Of course you can fold the towel, but in my climate, a folded towel won't dry. You can bunch it up, which also interferes with drying, and looks messy as well.

Towel rings are supposedly better for people who won't fold towels on a bar, and it's true that they tend to look neater. However, towels stay wet on them, too.

If there's wall space, put up at least one more towel bar than you usually need. You can use it for hanging all sorts of things that need to dry out.

 

Installing a simple towel bar:

I finally figured out how to install a simple towel bar perfectly level, after putting up quite a few crooked ones.

Tools: Drill, short level with a groove in one side, screwdriver, pencil or other marker. (A ratcheted screwdriver with a magnetic head saves a lot of frustration, but a plain one works, too.)

I drill a hole where I want one end of the bar to be, and fasten the bar to the wall with a screw, very lightly, not tightening it down. I swing the bar into position, using the level, and mark where the hole on the opposite side has to be. I let the bar hang while I drill the second hole, then fasten both ends snugly to the wall.

Windows

Cleaning Windows

You'll get less streaking if you clean windows on an overcast day.

I've had very mediocre results using squeegees, microfiber "glass cloths," newspaper, and all the usual paraphernalia. My solution for cleaning windows is to use either automotive glass cleaner or a wax type product that's applied wet and dusted off the window when it dries. My cloths are cotton bar mop or flour sack cloths, or for a small touch-up, paper towels.

I've also had good results with 0000 steel wool. Use it dry, no cleaners, with a very light touch, almost like dusting. Everyone asks if it doesn't scratch the glass, and I've been assured that it doesn't--that very fine steel wool is actually used to polish glass. I can't say that I've used this treatment repeatedly over a period of years on the same window, though.

Privacy Control

There's very little information on privacy rating of different window treatments. Of course, it depends how you use them. Also, what sight lines you're blocking. In general, there's little visibility into a house unless there is more light inside than outside. Your first line of privacy control is to switch off the lights in a room.

Frosted or textured glass isn't enough for bathroom privacy. At night with a light on, a great deal more is visible than some people evidently realize. Bathrooms in particular need a window shade or curtains in addition to obscure glass.

Window Treatments

There must be hundreds of books about designing and choosing window treatments--how to make them, too, if that's your interest. Little is said about maintenance of the finished product.

Venetian Blinds--Good privacy and light control, but cleaning is very complicated and time-consuming. Dust regularly and vacuum with a soft brush when you clean the room. But unless you are ready for a big, messy job, you'll do better to have them cleaned professionally.

Curtains--Other than sheers, probably have to be dry cleaned. Sheers, of course, don't provide much privacy--they're mostly for filtering daylight.

Shutters--Good privacy control, especially with multiple levels of shutters. Somewhat easier to clean than Venetian blinds--mostly require dusting.

Shades--Dusting and spot cleaning will ordinarily be enough to keep shades clean.

Interior Painting

If you decide to do your own interior painting, take a few ideas from the pros:

When you're choosing colors, be aware that a large area like a wall will magnify the intensity. Darker colors will make rooms seem smaller; lighter ones will have the opposite effect. But if the texture of your walls is something you don't want to emphasize, avoid the lightest colors.

Think about what else will be on the walls. Framed art or other wall decorations will play a big part in the final effect. If no wall art will be in the room, avoid painting all four walls in the same neutral color. It looks institutional.

Choose a paint that's recommended for the surface and use. Semi-gloss and gloss paints are scrubbable--flat paints, much less so.

Buy high quality paint and painting tools. Painting is a lot of work--it's pointless to try to do a good job with cheap materials.

Use synthetic brushes with latex paint, natural bristle brushes with oil paint.

Select the roller that's best for your wall surface and the texture you want.

Use an extension handle on your roller to save reaching and ladder work. You'll still have to do some, but the less, the better.

Use special stiff, angled brushes to paint trim neatly.

Buy all the paint for your project at once. A gallon of paint covers about 400 square feet of smooth wall. Textured surfaces take more.

If furniture has to remain in the room, use drop cloths and tape to make sure it's safe from paint spatters. Put sliders under furniture so you can move it around and out of the way easily.

One of the most important things in any paint job is surface preparation. Walls must be clean, oil-free, and dry. Dust baseboards and other woodwork thoroughly with a dry brush. Dust walls with a cloth, clean broom, or flat mop with a disposable dusting head. If walls are greasy or dirty, wash and dry thoroughly. Repair any cracks or nail holes.

Remove switch plates, face covers for electrical outlets, curtain hardware, and other removable things you don't want painted. Store them with their hardware in zip bags. Turn off the power to the masked electrical outlets.

Mask any small non-removable items like thermostats with painter's tape. Large non-removable items like ceiling fans can be enveloped in plastic bags and taped to keep them secure.

Use a dust mask, goggles, and knee pads to protect your body.

Make sure to have good ventilation.

Canvas tarps are considered better than plastic, and if you're going to do much painting, you might consider investing in them. Or use disposable ones or plastic tablecloths to protect the floor. However, if you'll be replacing the carpet as part of your redecorating, go ahead and use the existing carpet for a tarp, and do your carpeting after the paint job is complete and dry.

Set up a work table to minimize crawling around on the floor.

You can line roller trays with plastic tray liners so you don't have to wash them. Or use plastic grocery bags.

Many people prefer a bucket and paint grid to a roller tray for roller painting.

Use blue painter's tape for masking. Let the area to be masked dry thoroughly first. When you join two pieces of tape, overlap them so the paint won't seep between them. Seal the tape tightly to the surface with your fingers or a clean rag. To remove, warm with a hair dryer on low.

Wear disposable rubber gloves so you won't have to clean paint off your hands when you're done.

Wear a shower cap or hat when you paint a ceiling.

If your paint roller has loose fuzz, roll a lint roller over it before you start painting. Much of your roller painting can be done with an extension pole rather than as stepladder.

A few drops of vanilla extract will make latex paint smell much less. Mix thoroughly.

Stretch a large, wide rubber band vertically around the open can when brush painting. You use it to wipe the brush, which prevents drips.

Don't dip your whole brush into a can of paint. Just load paint on the end.

Paint ceilings first, then walls. Trim is last.

Paint at least two coats, a primer and a top coat. Professionals usually do three. Let each coat dry thoroughly before starting the next.

If you're painting over stains, use a primer-sealer coat.

If your painting job extends into the next day, wrap tools in plastic wrap overnight instead of cleaning them.

Thoughts about Clutter--Bathroom Clutter

Of all the places where "I may need that someday" gets in the way of keeping things orderly, the bathroom is the worst. You "may need" that shampoo you didn't care much for, those vitamins you're not taking, that gluey-looking mascara, or the ankle brace you needed for a couple of weeks two years ago.

On the other hand, you may not.

Be realistic about what you really need or are likely to use before its pull date, or ever.

Makeup

Corral makeup that's used daily in one basket that you stash on a shelf or in the linen closet--wherever you can get it off the counters. Makeup that's used only occasionally can be stored in a second container so you don't have to rummage through all of it every day when you're getting dressed.

Unfortunately, makeup doesn't usually come with a "use by" date on the package, the way food does. But any product that contains water can support bacteria. If a product is touched as you use it and then contacts the product in the container again--a mascara wand, for example--you shouldn't keep it for more than about three months. Be especially careful with eye makeup--it is so easy to get an eye infection.

Products that contain no water can last much longer. But be aware of the shelf life of products you buy--you can easily find out with an Internet search--and mark them for disposal if there's a safety issue.

Storage and Disposal of Medicines

Store medicines at cool temperatures. Many will last longer if refrigerated, but find out whether that's recommended for the specific medicine.

To dispose of medicines, take to a location designated for that. This could be a service available in a pharmacy or law enforcement location. If you can't do that, remove the medicine from its container and mix with kitty litter, dirt, coffee grounds, or other unappealing substance. This keeps it from being appealing to children and pets. Seal in a can or jar and dispose with the trash. Destroy the prescription label.

Never flush medicines down the toilet.

If you're in doubt about disposal, contact your pharmacist.

The Mice Step Out! The Mice Visit the Lighthouse

Click here for the mice's trip to the lighthouse and the story of the sky ship.

Book Reviews

1001 Housewife How-To's, by Katie Berry. Recommended.

100 Things Every Homeowner Must Know, by Reader's Digest. Excellent painting tips.

House Painting, Inside and Out by Mark Dixon. Detailed directions from a professional. Recommended.

Do it Yourself Painting for Dummies by Katharine Kay McMillan, PhD and Patricia Hart McMillan. Great detail and safety tips. Recommended.

Painting Secrets by Brian Santos. Smart and ingenious tips from a professional. Recommended.

Product Reviews

I have no financial interest in any of these companies, and have not received anything in exchange for my recommendations.

Craftsman Ratcheting Ready Bit Screwdriver. Takes most of the fumbling and frustration out of the job. Recommended.

KILZ MAX High Performance Water-Base Interior Primer--Does a great job of hiding stains. Recommended.

Gel Gloss Glass Wax--Applied wet, polished off dry. Does an excellent job of cleaning glass. You do have to sweep or vacuum up the dust. Recommended.

Armor All Auto Glass Cleaner--Much better than Windex and similar products. Recommended.

Invisible Glass Premium Glass Cleaner--Much better than Windex and similar products. Recommended.

Super Sliders Furniture Sliders--These make it easy to slide even the heaviest furniture around, even on carpet. Recommended.

Credits

Felted mice by Diyana Stankova

Mirror image by Printatoy

Ladder by Shepherd Miniatures